Sunday 16 June 2013

Marrakech - highly recommended

We finally arrived in Marrakech - seven hours late.  But we made it.

We spent just over two days here - and it was a fantastic experience.  This blog is a summary of what we thought was good - and things not to be missed in Marrakech.

Jemaa el Fna night market - what an experience, the noise, the people, the music, snakes, monkeys, water men, orange juice and snail shops, and people from all over the world walking, listening, selling, eating, dining, amidst music, chatter, and generally a very jolly atmosphere.

Walk through the Medina - we arrived late at night, and our driver stopped the car near the Jemaa el Fna markets and we walked to our Riad at night.  This was our first time to the Riad (Al Rimal).  The walk through winding alleys was scary, many corners, we half expected to be ambushed at each dark turn.  But after a few minutes, we are presented to our Riad.  Another 24 hours later, we know the walk well, and are very comfortable and feel safe., although a 'night guide' that was waiving a menacing looking stick around tried to show us the way. . . to earn a few Dinhars, of course.




Choose a Riad over a normal Hotel - Riads are like guest houses, done up exquisitely in local Marrakesh fashion.  Rooms are normally small, but there are lots of open / meeting spaces inside.  Ours had a small pool near the entry foyer (strangely enough, people did dip in frequently) and a great rooftop terrace where we had breakfast, dinner and enjoyed the spa after a long days walk.



Breakfast on rooftop - most Riads have a rooftop terrace and use it frequently.  The breakfast our Riad served was magnificent.  Breadrolls, jams, honey, yoghurt, fruit, coffee, tea, local bread....



Call to prayer at 4.20am - what more can I say ?  We had a small Mosque next to our Riad, and when one starts the morning Prayers, the others chime in and add to the cacophony.  Usually only lasts for 5-10 minutes, unless the Immams are in good spirits, and the chanting can go on for a bit longer.

Marrakech Museum - a nice place to visit, a lot of art and beautiful architecture.

Souks (old city shops walk) - surprising long walk through the shops in the souks - reminds us of the old city in Jerusalem.  Some of the shopkeepers were very insistent - wanting us just to look . . . problem was that they also then insisted that you buy something... in the end, they were very friendly.



Medina, old city walk
- like our first experience walking to our Riad at night, walking through the Medina was a very pleasant experience.  Most of the walks are in clean alleyways, and knowing that people live in houses behind the many doors, and that some of these houses would be exquisitely furnished and decorated.  We felt very safe.  Only issue was the thought that we would get lost . . .  but after a while, you get used to it and feel like a local.

Islamic School - no longer used, but was very bog and the centre square had a shallow pool in it and was decorated in local style - very nicely done.



Kasbah Cafe - roof top terrace was very nice after a walk in the sun.  From our seat, we could see a storks nest, we were cooled with a nice water spray, were given a complimentary beetroot juice (I drank both), and enjoyed a very pleasant lunch together with many other bohemian travellers.



Spice shops - you will be invited into many a spice shop.  Pick a nice looking one, and get ready for an impromptu presentation on all and sundry re spices... I never know there were so many spices and all of them local to Morocco.  The smells are overwhelming, and some of the oils are put to good use (ie, skin care).  You may walk in wondering why you are there, but leave a more informed person and slightly poorer as you purchase that must needed massage oil that you have always wanted.



Renaissance Hotel rooftop - seems to be one of the highest vantage points in Marrakech and has a view of most of the town and the Atlas mountains in the background.  Although a little hazy, it was well worth the experience.



Horse buggy ride - a very touristy thing to do, but once you get the price negotiations out of the way, it is a very pleasant way of getting to know more of Marrakech

Modern city - between the old city and the Hotel Renaissance, there is a very modern city, very Paris like, that has all the modern shops and hotels.



Diner at night overlooking the night markets - experiencing the night markets is one thing, but having dinner on a rooftop overlooking the markets is even better.  You get to experience the sights and sounds, are able to take lots of photos, all over a relaxing drink and some nice food.



Lunch at the Hôtel Les Jardins de La Koutoubia - which is around the corner from the el Fna markets and near our Riad, provided a very nice place for lunch and a rest.  The hotel has a very nice pool in its large courtyard, and the restaurant where you can have lunch overlooks this pool area.  Fabulous.



Haircut and a shave - I always try to have a haircut and a shave when I visit emerging countries (read cheap) - although this time I did not ask for a price upfront - so, perhaps $15 was a bit high, but it was well worth the experience.

Walk through local markets and Jewish quarter - sometimes the best experiences you have are when you get lost and spend time where the locals live, shop and congregate.  You may stand out, but Marrakech is a very safe place.  We also found what the locals called the Jewish quarter (to use it looked like any other street). Towards the end, we were accosted by some young children, who very cutely and confidently asked for ONE Dinhar - so, I proceeded to get out of my pocket a couple of ONE Dinhar coins.  Once I had done that  - they asked for 10 Dinhars . . . and I said SCRAM !  until one of their sisters comes and asks for ONE Dinhar as well.  I give her a coin and we move on... three Dinhars poorer.

Giving money away to the poor and needy - there are a lot of poor and disabled people in the world, and we cannot held all of them.  But getting 20 or 30 dollars and changing into dollar coins (10 Dinhar coins) and giving them away to random people in the markets and the streets is a very uplifting feeling.  The look on the beggars faces when they feel the weight of the coins (silver vs small copper) is good for the soul.

And finally, the People of Marrakech, they are the most friendly that we have come across in all of our travels.  All of them asked us if we had been to their country before - and all of them welcomed us to Morocco.  Even if we did not buy their goods, or use their horse buggies, or did not use their guiding services, they were all pleasant and very welcoming.



***

Marrakech - a surprisingly beautiful place on earth to visit.

Highly recommended.

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