Friday 21 June 2013

Two Irelands, Two days

Our next adventure begins , and this time we are early at the Beauvais Airport and the flight is expected to be on time.

Our breakfast consists of a baguette (jambon cru avec Mozza), a cup of tea and a bottle of water (for my 22 tablets).

Let's hope for an uneventful journey to Dublin !

Ryan Air does well this time.  Plane leaves and departs on time.  Therese and I manage to sit together at the back of the plane, a great position until we realised that we were next to the rear toilets.  Memories of 1992 and Al Italia !

We arrived after a short and uneventful flight, caught a bus into town and 

Dublin, best moments :

Music everywhere, street performers, bands
Trinity college, walk through
St Stevens Green, great park, full of people, flowers, lakes
Irish stew
Irish pubs, Fleet Street in Temple Barfull of crowds and live music
Carrols souvenier shops, there are many of them - wolly sheep
Bewer Cafe and Theatre
James Joyce celebrations
Irish accents, lepraucorns
Loreto stumble
12 hour trip to Belfast , Northern Ireland
Learning ?the Troubles' - '69to '99
Leading about Irish history : Celts, st Patrick,  Viking, Normans,
Irish independence struggles, 1916 - 1949
Gaol Kilmainham
The Dubliners, Joyce recital, the writings

Sunday 16 June 2013

Marrakech - highly recommended

We finally arrived in Marrakech - seven hours late.  But we made it.

We spent just over two days here - and it was a fantastic experience.  This blog is a summary of what we thought was good - and things not to be missed in Marrakech.

Jemaa el Fna night market - what an experience, the noise, the people, the music, snakes, monkeys, water men, orange juice and snail shops, and people from all over the world walking, listening, selling, eating, dining, amidst music, chatter, and generally a very jolly atmosphere.

Walk through the Medina - we arrived late at night, and our driver stopped the car near the Jemaa el Fna markets and we walked to our Riad at night.  This was our first time to the Riad (Al Rimal).  The walk through winding alleys was scary, many corners, we half expected to be ambushed at each dark turn.  But after a few minutes, we are presented to our Riad.  Another 24 hours later, we know the walk well, and are very comfortable and feel safe., although a 'night guide' that was waiving a menacing looking stick around tried to show us the way. . . to earn a few Dinhars, of course.




Choose a Riad over a normal Hotel - Riads are like guest houses, done up exquisitely in local Marrakesh fashion.  Rooms are normally small, but there are lots of open / meeting spaces inside.  Ours had a small pool near the entry foyer (strangely enough, people did dip in frequently) and a great rooftop terrace where we had breakfast, dinner and enjoyed the spa after a long days walk.



Breakfast on rooftop - most Riads have a rooftop terrace and use it frequently.  The breakfast our Riad served was magnificent.  Breadrolls, jams, honey, yoghurt, fruit, coffee, tea, local bread....



Call to prayer at 4.20am - what more can I say ?  We had a small Mosque next to our Riad, and when one starts the morning Prayers, the others chime in and add to the cacophony.  Usually only lasts for 5-10 minutes, unless the Immams are in good spirits, and the chanting can go on for a bit longer.

Marrakech Museum - a nice place to visit, a lot of art and beautiful architecture.

Souks (old city shops walk) - surprising long walk through the shops in the souks - reminds us of the old city in Jerusalem.  Some of the shopkeepers were very insistent - wanting us just to look . . . problem was that they also then insisted that you buy something... in the end, they were very friendly.



Medina, old city walk
- like our first experience walking to our Riad at night, walking through the Medina was a very pleasant experience.  Most of the walks are in clean alleyways, and knowing that people live in houses behind the many doors, and that some of these houses would be exquisitely furnished and decorated.  We felt very safe.  Only issue was the thought that we would get lost . . .  but after a while, you get used to it and feel like a local.

Islamic School - no longer used, but was very bog and the centre square had a shallow pool in it and was decorated in local style - very nicely done.



Kasbah Cafe - roof top terrace was very nice after a walk in the sun.  From our seat, we could see a storks nest, we were cooled with a nice water spray, were given a complimentary beetroot juice (I drank both), and enjoyed a very pleasant lunch together with many other bohemian travellers.



Spice shops - you will be invited into many a spice shop.  Pick a nice looking one, and get ready for an impromptu presentation on all and sundry re spices... I never know there were so many spices and all of them local to Morocco.  The smells are overwhelming, and some of the oils are put to good use (ie, skin care).  You may walk in wondering why you are there, but leave a more informed person and slightly poorer as you purchase that must needed massage oil that you have always wanted.



Renaissance Hotel rooftop - seems to be one of the highest vantage points in Marrakech and has a view of most of the town and the Atlas mountains in the background.  Although a little hazy, it was well worth the experience.



Horse buggy ride - a very touristy thing to do, but once you get the price negotiations out of the way, it is a very pleasant way of getting to know more of Marrakech

Modern city - between the old city and the Hotel Renaissance, there is a very modern city, very Paris like, that has all the modern shops and hotels.



Diner at night overlooking the night markets - experiencing the night markets is one thing, but having dinner on a rooftop overlooking the markets is even better.  You get to experience the sights and sounds, are able to take lots of photos, all over a relaxing drink and some nice food.



Lunch at the Hôtel Les Jardins de La Koutoubia - which is around the corner from the el Fna markets and near our Riad, provided a very nice place for lunch and a rest.  The hotel has a very nice pool in its large courtyard, and the restaurant where you can have lunch overlooks this pool area.  Fabulous.



Haircut and a shave - I always try to have a haircut and a shave when I visit emerging countries (read cheap) - although this time I did not ask for a price upfront - so, perhaps $15 was a bit high, but it was well worth the experience.

Walk through local markets and Jewish quarter - sometimes the best experiences you have are when you get lost and spend time where the locals live, shop and congregate.  You may stand out, but Marrakech is a very safe place.  We also found what the locals called the Jewish quarter (to use it looked like any other street). Towards the end, we were accosted by some young children, who very cutely and confidently asked for ONE Dinhar - so, I proceeded to get out of my pocket a couple of ONE Dinhar coins.  Once I had done that  - they asked for 10 Dinhars . . . and I said SCRAM !  until one of their sisters comes and asks for ONE Dinhar as well.  I give her a coin and we move on... three Dinhars poorer.

Giving money away to the poor and needy - there are a lot of poor and disabled people in the world, and we cannot held all of them.  But getting 20 or 30 dollars and changing into dollar coins (10 Dinhar coins) and giving them away to random people in the markets and the streets is a very uplifting feeling.  The look on the beggars faces when they feel the weight of the coins (silver vs small copper) is good for the soul.

And finally, the People of Marrakech, they are the most friendly that we have come across in all of our travels.  All of them asked us if we had been to their country before - and all of them welcomed us to Morocco.  Even if we did not buy their goods, or use their horse buggies, or did not use their guiding services, they were all pleasant and very welcoming.



***

Marrakech - a surprisingly beautiful place on earth to visit.

Highly recommended.

Saturday 15 June 2013

Ryan Air - and a french air traffic controllers stirke - what a day !

The day started off well.  We woke early , early enough for us to press the snooze button a few times on Therese's iPhone alarm.  We had plenty of time.  We pack, get the flat ready, and leave to catch the Metro to the bus stop at Porte Maillot.  We get there with time to spare (we had done a practice run yesterday) and even get on an early bus.

This is when some of the problems started.  The traffic around and towards La Defence was terrible.  Almost at a standstill. The bus driver was very annoyed, so this mustn't be normal circumstances.

Anyway, we get out of Paris ok, and the drive to Beauvais - Tille airport was very pleasant.  We arrive just a few minutes late, but are the first out of the bus to check in.

That is when we realized that there was something wrong.  The arrivals / departure board showed that our plane was going to be four hours late !  Bugger !

At the check in, we find out that there is a strike (all air traffic controllers in France are gunning for better pay / better conditions), and that our plane might not leave at all !  Double bugger !!

So we get a coffee, a tea and a croissant and settle down for the wait.  An hour into this time, Therese and I decide to go for a walk along the country side, and especially into the local village, called Tille (after which the airport is named after).  The village is very Heiloo (a small village in Holland) like, nice, neat houses, small roads.  During the walk, we find that there was hardly anyone in the village, almost felt like a movie set(like Jim Carey's The Truman Show).  The butcher was closed.  The baker was closed.  The pharmacist was closed. The hairdresser was closed.  But the cafe was open.  We walk in, and see that it is full !!  We are amazed, as there was no one on the streets (maybe all the actors were taking a break).

We asked the waiter to wait a minute (to take our order) and 45 minutes later we still hadn't seen him.  Although we were enjoying the sun (and the rain spits), we also wanted to eat some lunch.  I walked in, got eye contact, and order some lunch (plate of the day, steak and chips), not a lot of options.

Food came quickly, it was ok, and the two main desert options (mousse and creme brûlée had run out).  We opted for a glade (citron) that turned out to be a Cornetto, and something that looked / tasted like custard and meringue.

We paid, thanked the waiter, said goodbye to some of the other locals ( a bonjour and a nod) and head back to the airport.

We get back around 3pm, and it looks like the plane WILL leave, and they were starting the boarding process.  Going through security, we had to give up our coke, only to buy more drinks whilst waiting in the transit area.  Around 4pm, we were asked to go through customs, and enter the final passenger waiting area before we board the plane.

Now, if you know anything about Ryan Air, it is the cheapest, meanest airline out there.  And you know that most people don't have seats allocated, so, we moved to the front of the queue (relatively speaking) and were positioned well for the final assault.

About 40 minutes later, we're still in the queue and the previous plane (a WizzAir to Bucharest) finally takes off.   And about that time, our Ryan Air flight lands.  Everybody gets excited and the queue starts to tighten (you know, when everybody moves up the line but nobody goes anywhere).  And about that time, two families with strollers push their way to the front.  Nobody really challenges them, as have very small kids etc, but, Ryan Air is supposed to be so cheap, that if you want priority boarding, you have to pay an extra € 15 per person for the privilege .  Our plane taxis, parks, and the folks that have flown from Marrakech deplane.

The waiting game then begins.  The plane needs to be cleaned.  The plane needs to be refueled.  10, 15 minutes go by, nothing.  And then an announcement.  Boarding will commence in 90 mins time !  All of our efforts to get close to the front of the queue, all in vain !!  Triple bugger !

Now we are back in the transit lounge, sitting in a cafe, not sure we will actually fly out.  I called the hotel in Marrakech and let them known that we were coming late.  They said that they would be at the airport to pick us up.

Let's hope for something to go right today, for once !

It is 6.38pm and we are in the plane.  It is very full, and extremely chaotic.  Most folks did not have a reserved seat.  Seating was one issue, the other was baggage / storage .  What a nightmare !  Therese and I were fortunate.  We got in early and got seats and our luggage stored.

Here's a tip : don't ever be one of the last in the plane in a Ryan Air flight.  You may get a seat . . . Where in the plane, who knows, and your luggage may be stored somewhere . . . But who knows where.





Anyway, 6.45pm, and we're about to take off !

Marrakech - here we come.

Monday 10 June 2013

A busy day ?

Therese and I have travelled a lot.  We often fill our days to the max, always wanting to get the most out of the short time we have in any particular city, country.





Yesterday was no different.  In fact, it was probably a typical day for us when we travel.

We woke up around 6am, although Therese had been awake for a few hours already.  We sleep in for a bit, but then I decide I want to go for a run.  Therese joins me and we agree to meet on the Pont des Arts (where all the Padlocks are fastened to the bridge fences (there are 10,000's of them, all with messages of undying love).

We set out around 7am, and I start running along the Seine and cross the Pont des Arts heading towards the Ile de la Cite.  I ran for about 20 minutes and meet up Therese on the bridge and we decide to go for a bit of a walk.  We cross the river and walk into the gardens around the Louvre Museum.  We decide to head towards Place de la Concorde and tempted to then walk to the Eiffell tower . .  but a call of nature forces us to return to the apartment on Rue de Lille.

After a shower and some breakfast, we head to the offices to pick up our Paris Passes - we prepurchased 4 day passes from Sydney, but had to pick them up from their offices in Rue des Jeunues.

Well, Google advice of a 23 minute walk turned into more like a 45 minute walk (my eyes are not good, and I tend to stumble into things (and people)), and once the passes are in our hot little hands, we decided to have  coffee somewhere local.

We pick a nice local Boulangerie / natural food shop thing - looked good from the outside and seemed busy - and tried to order the Petit Dejeuner from the menu (7.5 Euros) . . . . but we ended up getting Tea, Coffee (scores 2 out of 10) and some bread (bagguette) . . .nothings else.  Nada.  No butter (beurre), no jam (confiture).  Did we complain ?  noooo,  Just sat there, enjoying the dry bread (we thought it was what the locals did ?)

During this time, we had a discussion on how to best use our 4 day Paris Passes . . . . and couldn't decide except to go to the Louvre Museum.

On the way to the Louvre, we discovered what we thought was where Angelina Jolie (Elise Ward) in The Tourist (co star, Johnny Depp) probably our most favourite movie of all time) had breakfast in the opening scenes.  We played the movie later on and confimed that we had found the right cafe.  We are now planning our next day and will come here to saviour the moment.

Back to the Louvre,  Our Paris Passes get us through the first gate (without waiting in queues) and when we get inside (under the glass pyramid) was are blown away by the crowds.  We get through the second check point with ease (just showing our passes) and we feel good  (about spending all of that money on the Paris Passes).

The Louvre may be a great museum,  but it takes a lot of patience and a love of their specific art.  They don't have a couple of examples of each item, they have galleries full of it.  We find the Grand Gallery and have another perv at the Mona Lisa and decide to move on.

We walk along the Seine to the Latin Quarter - to enjoy a well deserved break - and have some lunch.  This was the lunch where my phone was stolen - pissed me off big time - by a bunch of street kids . . . I spend at least 45 minutes looking around for them before we asked some local gendarmes where the nearest police station was (so that we could report the theft for insurance purposes).  The process took around 90 minutes, not too painful. 

When finished at the police station, we decided to make use of our Paris Passes and climb up the Notre Dame towers.  What a fantastic view ! And to think that this church was built in 1163 !






There are around 400 stairs to get up (both levels) and then another 400 to get down, of course.  Good exercise !

Once on the groun, we decide to have another break (read coffee stop) and just around the corner from the Notre Dame cathedral we find this Pattiserie that sells the biggest Palmiers one has ever seen !  This photo does not do it justice !




And yes, it was very nice.

We got a coffee and tea in the same cafe we were in 4 years ago (across the road from St Chapelle) . 

By the way, the coffee's in France taste very different to the coffee's (Flat Whites, Capuccinos) that we have in Australia.  In my humble opinion, the French don't seem to know how to make nice coffee !

After our coffee, we walk along Ile de la Cite across to Ile de St Louis - where we know there are many ice cream shops.  Of course, I have to have one !

After the ice cream, we cross one of the bridges into the Marais Quarter - meander through the small streets (Jewish section) and end up in the Place Pompidou .  We decide to use our Paris Passes to enter the Pompidou museum (floors 4 and 5) and look around at some of the modern (very modern) art, including a number of Picassos.

By the time we are finished at the Pompidou, it is getting dark so we decide to walk home.  It is by now after 9.30 pm, so we decide to go to the local MonoPrix (supermarket) and buys some milk, bread, ham, etc, so that we could have a simple dinner in our apartment, on the verandah, as the sun sets.

A long day ?  16 hours, sure.  Tiring ?  sure, probably walked 12+ kms.  Satisfying ?  Absolutely.








It took just three seconds

I consider myself well travelled; been to many countries, understand many cultures.  Had many an experience (highs and lows) all over the world.

So when it comes to this Paris experience, I get pissed to the max !





I was sitting quietly in a small coffee shop in the Latin Quarter in Paris - eating my baguette and sipping my coke, when three 'urchins' (gipsy kids) come up to our table and put a plastic covered sheet (something about Jerusalem) on our table. 

My 'scam' radar went on high alert, and my hand went on to hold my camera that was on the table. Scam ! I said, go away I shouted.  The kids hovered and within a couple of seconds they scrammed .   My relief lasted only seconds, when I noticed that my iPhone was GONE !  Bugger , double bugger !  I look around, not believing someone would take it, and then quickly realise that the scam had worked . . . bastards ! 

I get up, look around - gone !  I walk to the counter around the corner, and ask the shopkeeper if he has seen any kids hovering around . . . he does not understand english...  tripple bugger.

Out of the corner I see my friend Elias (we met Elias the day before and ate in his very nice Greek Restaurant) and I ask him for help . . . .   my problem was that I was still chewing on the baguette and my mout was dry and I could not speak well or swalled, and my eyes would have been opening and closing. . .  must have looked like a real goose !

Eventually, I get my message across, and we walk together around the streets for a few minutes, but nothing.   After a while, I thank Elias, and I spend the next 30 minutes or so wondering the streets . . . nothing.  Logic tells me that once these kids are sucecssful they dissappear.  Go to another district and try their luck on some other unsuspecting tourists.

Bugger Bugger Bugger.    It gives me the shits !

***

Anyway, today is another day.  We went to the Police station and reported the theft (to get a police report for the insurance).   The money is one thing, and we may get some back, but it is just the inconvenience (I had just bought a new local SIM card to help me stay in touch !).

Lesson ?  Be careful and keep an eye out for these scammers / street kids !

Saturday 1 June 2013

Our first meal in Rue de Lille

We arrived in Paris early this morning and had to kill some time before they let us in the apartment.  We're on the 5th floor of a nice but very old building. I guess early 1800's, but well maintain and has an elevator that fits one and bit people.  We're happy to walk downstairs but upstairs is a real bugger.  

We shopped at a local supermarket for some essentials and then went for a walk around the local shops in St Germain.

At the end we were looking for a pizza place, there are usually many of them around, but not today.  We finished up buying a baguette and a small quiche and made some sandwiches for dinner.

Did I mention that we bought some Camembert cheese from the shops?  I thought this one would be ok, but I am afraid that the smell of this cheese rivals the one we bought when we stayed in Rue Magenta.  I don't know why I do it.  The cheese just plain stinks.

Bugger bugger double bugger.


Looks good though... And the ham baguettes were great !

Next time, I promise to skip the cheese !

By the way, We ate dinner in the sunroom of our apartment.  Great views from the top !